A mobile defense in mud and blood is pretty complicated, and if you haven't perfect a stationary defense yet, do not read this because you won't be able to pull something like this off with out ending up in a situation in Mud and blood called eh, insanity, which is when you can't control what's happening on the battle field, which is what a good commander should be able to do.
Mobile: Being able to move.
A mobile defense is not only perfect for the six man rule but also incredibly fun to do when your bored, it means you get to think about the game and also be pretty creative in the way you pull it off, it gives a lot of leeway room on how you can do it, which is why it's so easy to screw it up.
Basically a mobile defense is defense that moves, whether you have separate teams of mean, or you use the entire defense as one mobile squad that moves in unison, or an "Every man for himself" Game. But, Disorganization means Destruction, so always figure out some method of keeping the battle controlled and stable.
It also means You can't use your signaler to call a strike, Because most of the time a mobile defense can stretch from the bottom of the map to the top, that or it can be a tiny band of units. But either way there's almost always important units on the top of the screen, a mobile defense is kind of the non offensive version of the Blitzkrieg, you're goal is to be fast, and relentless, when you see a German you move your deadliest unit to kill him, when the Germans throw a tank at you, you send your AT units after it, have him pick it off and then take that position.
Putting your men on the upper half of the screen has advantages and disadvantages, for example, when you hear an Air strike, you know the Germans are going to bomb your position, no matter where you are, which is why you move your troops back in time for the Germans to eat their own bombs, another example of a DISADVANTAGE is flankers, which is why you should probably set up mines or have a couple of units in the back to keep any flankers in check. A lot of Advantages depend on the way you run your squad.
Anyways, there's not much else I can say about this, as most of this depends on the situation and how you deal with it,
Wednesday, February 9, 2011
Friday, February 4, 2011
Art of mud and blood 2
The art of Mud and blood.
Definition of unit:An individual, group, structure, or other entity regarded as an elementary structural or functional constituent of a whole. This means structures included!
Active units
There are three kind of units in Mud and blood.
Stationary: Not moving.
Stationary units are usually some kind of Anti Infantry or Utility structures. A classic case would be a 50 caliber unit. They are extremely useful when building a Solid defense
(Solid in mud and blood 2: Not easy to brake through), In fact most of your more important units. AAA guns, 50 calibers, Bunkers etc. Are stationary. (By the way, ALL Structures are stationary), and they cannot move out of one spot, so be careful where you place them (A tip says that AAA guns are better kept in the corner of the map, this is the one time where you should listen to the voices.) So, all of this rolled into one short sentence: Stationary units are the CORE of your defense in a normal game.
Mobile: Capable of moving or of being moved readily from place to place.
A lot of Important Mobile units are AT or Anti infantry, almost all of your mobile units are vital to killing off enemies. Some Mobile units are also utility units. Signaler, Engineer, Officer Etc. ALL of your Anti tank units will be in in this category, the simplest of this being your Signaler (Signaler with 10+ Exp = Reincarnation of Jesus)
Mobile Units are Also all of your infantry, save the Replacement Crewman, who at some point becomes stationary.
Utility: Used, serving, or working in several capacities as needed.
Utilities are your MOST important unit, though their are few of them.
Your basic Utility unit is:
Officer, it can direct fire and hold fire, give morale and Exp to soldiers, and upgrade in many useful ways.
Engineer, it can Build structures from Explosives to Pillboxes, it can not only kill many enemies with it's grease gun but it also practically builds your entire defense single handedly.
Signaler, it can call artillery and close support, a signaler with more then 10 exp is a god send, it can save your ass in just about every situation with the cost of only a few Tactical points and a Communications antenna.
You could probably argue that a Medic is a utility unit as it heals wounded soldiers, which is extremely important to holding together a squad, same thing for Mechanics, and sometimes sarge, who boosts morale.
Weapons: An instrument of attack or defense in combat, as a gun, missile, or sword. So this includes Airplane bombs, and bayonets.
Your basic weapons could be put into three categories: Rifles, Automatics. and explosives.
Rifle: A firearm with a rifled bore, designed to be fired from the shoulder.
The weapons in the game that follow this are:
M1 Garand
M1 carbine
Springfield. (Scoped/Unscoped)
Shotgun.
Automatic: Capable of firing continuously until ammunition is exhausted or the trigger is released.
BAR
TommyGun
Grease gun.
Machine gun. 30 Cal - 50 cal.
Explosives: Relating to or having the nature of an explosion.
Bazooka
TNT
Plane bombs.
Mines
Grenades/ Rifle 'nades
20mmm
Now, weapons are a pretty versatile thing in mud and blood 2 compared to other things that relate to it, just about any kind of weapon used in the right place can raise hell for the German. The way to do this is to look at the range of a weapon.
Range:
Lowest ranged weapons are: The tommy gun, Shotgun and pistol,
Highest ranged would be: The M1 Carbine, M1 Garand, BAR and Springfield scoped and unscoped.
Long ranged Rifles should be put in the back of your defense, while short ranged up closer to the enemy to even it out.
Although some weapons can seriously mess you up Friendly fire wise. AAA guns, Bazooka's, Mines and Grenades/rifle 'nades are Weapons that can cause Friendly fire I would suggest also putting these at the front of your line to keep things like that at a minimum
I'd say, and this is my own Opinion your three best weapons are: The BAR which is a very powerful weapon and if in the hands of a soldier with high enough rifle it can last you a hundred waves, M1 Garand is an accurate and semi automatic weapon and can pick Germans off one by one , and TNT which, unlike mines can't explode when they are most needed, TNT can be blown up by hand.
Stationary game play is just what is sounds like, if you've read the previous two Pages of this, you'll know about stationary units: Units that can't move.
Well a stationary defense is your basic defense - trenches, bunkers, and more importantly cam nets. A lot of the times your defense is based on Protective structure (Protective being, you can put Infantry units in it to have a lesser chance of them being killed.) But, one of the main weaknesses of this defense is the fact that if you have more then six units out, which you need to run a solid Stationary defense, so cam nets are pretty Vital to something like it, as it conceals your men.
If using a defense like this your defense should have Support units and crate fetchers (Jeeps, medics, scouts Etc.) and basic units to hold the line. A lot of strategies you would find in the Mud and blood 2 wiki suggest having an anti tank section, a decent Idea but unfortunately while doing this you have to keep aware that you can't stack M3 guns, because M3 guns are now utterly useless, but you can still have basic AT units, Bazooka's, AT Half track Etc.
A basic defense could be a bunker with an MG in the center with a trench on one side full of Regular units and a mortar pit on the other side with a mortar and a bazooka. This would be okay according to the six man rule, but this is missing basic utility units. So, you put a camnet over the trench and order more units, though, camnets cost a lot of money and are extremely fragile I Wouldn't suggest fitting too many men in it because your in for an air strike or two the minute it collapses.
Here are some units that are just about perfect for this, no.particular order.
Mortar, A half decent weapon for light armor, and infantry.
AAA, clobbers infantry and has a good chance of destroying planes.
50 cal, Can shoot out German howitzers and pin infantry.
Bazooka, a Well placed shot can even kill two pieces of enemy armor, just about perfect for 50+ waves.
Scout, tells you when the next wave is coming and is a perfect crate fetcher, along with being able to fire and shoot at the same time.
And as always, your Utility units.
For weapons, I would suggest a lot more long ranged then not, BAR's Especially.
Anyways, the picture above is a basic stationary defense.
There will be more to come Mud and blood 2 lovers!
Definition of unit:An individual, group, structure, or other entity regarded as an elementary structural or functional constituent of a whole. This means structures included!
Active units
There are three kind of units in Mud and blood.
Stationary: Not moving.
Stationary units are usually some kind of Anti Infantry or Utility structures. A classic case would be a 50 caliber unit. They are extremely useful when building a Solid defense
(Solid in mud and blood 2: Not easy to brake through), In fact most of your more important units. AAA guns, 50 calibers, Bunkers etc. Are stationary. (By the way, ALL Structures are stationary), and they cannot move out of one spot, so be careful where you place them (A tip says that AAA guns are better kept in the corner of the map, this is the one time where you should listen to the voices.) So, all of this rolled into one short sentence: Stationary units are the CORE of your defense in a normal game.
Mobile: Capable of moving or of being moved readily from place to place.
A lot of Important Mobile units are AT or Anti infantry, almost all of your mobile units are vital to killing off enemies. Some Mobile units are also utility units. Signaler, Engineer, Officer Etc. ALL of your Anti tank units will be in in this category, the simplest of this being your Signaler (Signaler with 10+ Exp = Reincarnation of Jesus)
Mobile Units are Also all of your infantry, save the Replacement Crewman, who at some point becomes stationary.
Utility: Used, serving, or working in several capacities as needed.
Utilities are your MOST important unit, though their are few of them.
Your basic Utility unit is:
Officer, it can direct fire and hold fire, give morale and Exp to soldiers, and upgrade in many useful ways.
Engineer, it can Build structures from Explosives to Pillboxes, it can not only kill many enemies with it's grease gun but it also practically builds your entire defense single handedly.
Signaler, it can call artillery and close support, a signaler with more then 10 exp is a god send, it can save your ass in just about every situation with the cost of only a few Tactical points and a Communications antenna.
You could probably argue that a Medic is a utility unit as it heals wounded soldiers, which is extremely important to holding together a squad, same thing for Mechanics, and sometimes sarge, who boosts morale.
Weapons: An instrument of attack or defense in combat, as a gun, missile, or sword. So this includes Airplane bombs, and bayonets.
Your basic weapons could be put into three categories: Rifles, Automatics. and explosives.
Rifle: A firearm with a rifled bore, designed to be fired from the shoulder.
The weapons in the game that follow this are:
M1 Garand
M1 carbine
Springfield. (Scoped/Unscoped)
Shotgun.
Automatic: Capable of firing continuously until ammunition is exhausted or the trigger is released.
BAR
TommyGun
Grease gun.
Machine gun. 30 Cal - 50 cal.
Explosives: Relating to or having the nature of an explosion.
Bazooka
TNT
Plane bombs.
Mines
Grenades/ Rifle 'nades
20mmm
Now, weapons are a pretty versatile thing in mud and blood 2 compared to other things that relate to it, just about any kind of weapon used in the right place can raise hell for the German. The way to do this is to look at the range of a weapon.
Range:
Lowest ranged weapons are: The tommy gun, Shotgun and pistol,
Highest ranged would be: The M1 Carbine, M1 Garand, BAR and Springfield scoped and unscoped.
Long ranged Rifles should be put in the back of your defense, while short ranged up closer to the enemy to even it out.
Although some weapons can seriously mess you up Friendly fire wise. AAA guns, Bazooka's, Mines and Grenades/rifle 'nades are Weapons that can cause Friendly fire I would suggest also putting these at the front of your line to keep things like that at a minimum
I'd say, and this is my own Opinion your three best weapons are: The BAR which is a very powerful weapon and if in the hands of a soldier with high enough rifle it can last you a hundred waves, M1 Garand is an accurate and semi automatic weapon and can pick Germans off one by one , and TNT which, unlike mines can't explode when they are most needed, TNT can be blown up by hand.
Well a stationary defense is your basic defense - trenches, bunkers, and more importantly cam nets. A lot of the times your defense is based on Protective structure (Protective being, you can put Infantry units in it to have a lesser chance of them being killed.) But, one of the main weaknesses of this defense is the fact that if you have more then six units out, which you need to run a solid Stationary defense, so cam nets are pretty Vital to something like it, as it conceals your men.
If using a defense like this your defense should have Support units and crate fetchers (Jeeps, medics, scouts Etc.) and basic units to hold the line. A lot of strategies you would find in the Mud and blood 2 wiki suggest having an anti tank section, a decent Idea but unfortunately while doing this you have to keep aware that you can't stack M3 guns, because M3 guns are now utterly useless, but you can still have basic AT units, Bazooka's, AT Half track Etc.
A basic defense could be a bunker with an MG in the center with a trench on one side full of Regular units and a mortar pit on the other side with a mortar and a bazooka. This would be okay according to the six man rule, but this is missing basic utility units. So, you put a camnet over the trench and order more units, though, camnets cost a lot of money and are extremely fragile I Wouldn't suggest fitting too many men in it because your in for an air strike or two the minute it collapses.
Here are some units that are just about perfect for this, no.particular order.
Mortar, A half decent weapon for light armor, and infantry.
AAA, clobbers infantry and has a good chance of destroying planes.
50 cal, Can shoot out German howitzers and pin infantry.
Bazooka, a Well placed shot can even kill two pieces of enemy armor, just about perfect for 50+ waves.
Scout, tells you when the next wave is coming and is a perfect crate fetcher, along with being able to fire and shoot at the same time.
And as always, your Utility units.
For weapons, I would suggest a lot more long ranged then not, BAR's Especially.
Anyways, the picture above is a basic stationary defense.
There will be more to come Mud and blood 2 lovers!
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